THE JOURNEY

The bleakest day yet

See video

We awoke today to our first real storm. Perseverance Harbour had been transformed from the glassy millpond the previous day to one of wild whitecaps and battering waves. For the first time during this expedition the wharf was under siege from the harbour’s waves. As Mark C (our weatherman) explained it, there was a 35 knot nor-easterly wind driving the waves into the harbour and lowering the outside temperature to 5.5ºC – the inside temperature only marginally warmer at 6ºC – “one of the most miserable days on this god-forsaken place” (I am sure he was just kidding about that last bit)!

I have to admit that this is the coldest I have ever felt here – with three layers of microfibre tops on I am still feeling chilly. But the opportunity to go down to the wharf and film this momentous occasion was too great, so I donned my Swazi outer wear and umbrella and trundled off. The umbrella gave a valiant but ultimately pointless effort to withstand the strong winds, although its crumpled carcass still was useful to keep the rain and spray off the video camera.

We had two teams coming home today from field huts and we wondered how they were faring in these trying conditions. When Colin came in his expression was similar to that of a bedraggled cat, and a hot shower was needed to warm him up. But what a spectacular day – and a great display of the raw power of the Subantarctic. The video doesn’t do it justice I’m sure.

[Shelley McMurtrie]